Planking is the stage that turns a skeleton of bulkheads into a hull. It rewards patience, and mistakes show in the finished model. Free planking guides exist in PDF form from various modeling clubs and authors; this article gives a written overview of the main ideas.
Single vs double planking
Single planking uses one layer of finish-quality planks over the bulkheads. It is faster, but each plank must be neat. Double planking adds a first layer of cheaper strips that gives a smooth, solid shape, then a thinner finish layer on top. Many beginner kits use double planking because the first layer forgives errors and lets you sand the shape before the visible planks go on.
Bulkheads and fairing
Before any planks are glued, check that bulkheads are square and the keel is straight. Fairing means sanding the bulkhead edges so planks lie flat across them without bridging gaps. Lay a thin strip across several bulkheads to test, and sand until it touches evenly. Skipping this step is a common source of bumps.
Planking layout and belts
Experienced builders divide the hull into belts: groups of planks between marked lines running along the hull. Marking the belts keeps planks from drifting up or down. Follow the kit directions on where to start, commonly from the top below the sheer and from the keel, working toward the middle. The final gap is filled with a tapered closing plank.
Bending: soaking and heat
Most planks need to curve edgewise or twist at the bow and stern. Common methods include:
- Soaking in hot water until flexible, then clamping to dry in shape.
- Heat bending with a plank bender or heated tool, which controls the curve.
- Pre-shaping in a jig.
Species and thickness change how much a plank will bend, so test with a scrap piece.
Edge-setting, spiling and tapering
Planks narrow toward the bow, and wide planks need cutting to shape. Measure the available width at each bulkhead, then mark and cut a taper. Spiling transfers the curve of a neighboring plank onto a new one. Edge-bending a plank can help it curve without cutting, but too much force can crack it.
Gluing and clamping
White or yellow PVA wood glue is widely used. Apply it to the bulkheads and the plank edge, pin or clamp in place, and wipe squeeze-out right away. Work in small areas so glue does not dry before clamping. Cyanoacrylate can hold ends quickly but is harder to sand around.
Sanding and finishing
Once planks are on, fill gaps with filler that matches the wood, sand with graduated grits, and check for flat spots with a raking light. Then stain, varnish or paint the hull. Large kits are especially unforgiving of poor planking; see how it fits in for a model ship of the line.
Common mistakes
- Planks not tapered, leaving wedge gaps at the bow.
- Forcing planks to bend until they crack.
- Not fairing bulkheads.
- Letting rows drift out of line.
- Gluing before dry-fitting.
FAQ
Which wood is best? Basswood, lime and walnut are common for kit planking, but follow the kit.
Do I need double planking? No, but it is easier for beginners.
Where do I find a plan to follow? See free model ship plans.